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Environmental Upgradation and Governance in Apparel Global Value Chains: A Case of Pakistan

Thesis Info

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Author

Khan, Mahwish Jamil

Program

PhD

Institute

Iqra University

City

Karachi

Province

Sindh

Country

Pakistan

Thesis Completing Year

2018

Thesis Completion Status

Completed

Subject

Marketing

Language

English

Link

http://prr.hec.gov.pk/jspui/bitstream/123456789/11205/1/Mahwish%20Jamil%20Khan%20Dissertation%20Final.pdf

Added

2021-02-17 19:49:13

Modified

2024-03-24 20:25:49

ARI ID

1676724685536

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This thesis explores environmental upgrading in the context of the apparel industry of Pakistan through the conceptual lens of the GVC framework and seeks to fill a theoretical and empirical void that presently exists in environmental upgrading and governance in GVC and marketing literatures. The thesis examines the type of environmental certifications acquired by the suppliers, the benefits and challenges of such upgrading, and perceived changes in buyer-supplier relationships along political, social, economic, operational and technological dimensions. A cross-sectional study has been conducted through a qualitative study of suppliers, buyers, PEPA, auditors and buying houses. The interviews were transcribed, and analyzed using multiple techniques of matching data to the arguments, rival explanations and pattern matching. Findings suggest that environmental upgrading altered the political relationships in terms of monitoring and compliance mechanisms. Changes were also observed in the social and technological relationships. The study concludes that environmental upgrading does not generate eco-rents, and the mechanisms through which it is carried out strategically positions certification bodies and not suppliers within GVC. Lack of strategic intent, energy crisis and prevailing terrorism situation in the country has rendered Pakistani suppliers uncompetitive in apparel trade. Suppliers need to overcome these challenges by developing strong international linkages and implementing collective environmental solutions. It is also suggested that there is a need to formulate a universal environmental standard. Global buyers that claim sustainability within their GVC must also financially reflect it in their sourcing practices from developing countries. In the end, recommendations for future research are provided.
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مولانا شمس الرحمن نوید عثمانی

آہ! مولانا شمس الرحمن نویدؔ عثمانی
۷/ ربیع الاوّل ۱۴۱۴ھ مطابق ۲۶/ اگست ۱۹۹۳ء بروز جمعرات کو نیک و برگزیدہ عالم دین، اسلامی مصنف اور ملّتِ اسلامیہ کے ہمدرد و غم خوار جناب شمس الرحمن نوید عثمانی یوپی کے نوابی شہر رامپور میں اچانک انتقال فرماگئے۔ انا ﷲ وانا الیہ راجعون۔
مرحوم مولانا شمس الرحمن نویدؔ عثمانی حضرت مفکر ملّت مفتی عتیق الرحمن عثمانی کے چچیرے چھوٹے بھائی تھے اور راقم الحروف کی والدہ مرحومہ سے بھی ان کی قریبی رشتے داری تھی گویا ان سے راقم کے کئی رشتے تھے۔ وہ راقم کے چچا بھی، بھائی بھی، ماموں بھی اور پھوپھا بھی تھے۔ بڑے ہی جیّد عالم تھے، اسلامی مسائل پر انھیں بَلا کا عبور حاصل تھا۔ جدید علوم کے شناسا و ماہر تھے۔ سائنس اور قرآن پر ان کی معرکۃ الآرا کتاب علم داں طبقے میں بڑی دلچسپی کے ساتھ پڑھی گئی اور پسند کی گئی۔ وید اور قرآن پر بھی انھوں نے ٹھوس علمی کام کیا ہے۔ ادارہ ندوۃ المصنفین دہلی کے ترجمان ـ’’برہان‘‘ میں ان کے علمی و ادبی و تحقیقی اور پُراز معلومات مضامین ہر خاص و عام سے داد تحسین حاصل کرتے رہے ہیں۔ مرحوم نویدؔ عثمانی جماعت اسلامی ہند کے رکن خاص تھے۔
حضرت مفکر ملّت مفتی عتیق الرحمن عثمانی کا بڑا ہی ادب و احترام کرتے تھے اور جب حضرت مفتی صاحب کے انتقال کی خبر سنی تو آہ کے ساتھ ان کے منہ سے بے ساختہ جملہ نکلا: ’’آج ملّتِ اسلامیہ یتیم ہوگئی‘‘۔ مسلمانانِ ہند کا سچا قائد، رہبر و غم خوار وہ مفتی عتیق الرحمن عثمانی کو کہا کرتے تھے۔ ان کی وفات کے بعد انھوں نے یہ بھی کہا تھا کہ اب دیکھنا ملّتِ اسلامیہ ہند کو کن کن مسائل سے دوچار ہونا پڑے گا۔ چنانچہ ان کا یہ اندیشہ و خیال آگے چل...

الشھید و اقسامہ مع استعمالاتہ الخاطئتہ فی العصر الحاضر

Islamic concept about Jihad is very different as what is interpreted by the western scholars. This Jihad is not only the name of giving just his own life but to a specific purpose, which is only to create peace and to prevent cruelty and injustice in the society. There are several verses of Quran and Hadith, which explore this concept, but Islam also regulates the rules and regulation for this. To explain the misconception about Jihad, some points have been explored in this research article to guide the people effectively that how jihad should be conducted, while other activities named as “jihad” and an activist intending to take part in such activities might not be counted as a “martyr”. So the important points to be kept in mind are: · In Islam the martyr has a very great value, but in specific terms. · Martyr in Islam is not simply means of giving life. · There are some rules and regulations that must to be followed, i. E., a person must be a Muslim and his intention is only for Allah, and not for his worldly desires, and he follow the rules what Islam justified for the war. · His jihad will not be accepted without the permission of his parents or if he dies in the state of sin etc. · Islam does not allow killing innocent persons, Muslims or non-Muslims, without caring the color and caste, if he does so he would be answerable to Allah.

Occurrence of Aflatoxin in Groundnut and Spices During Storage

Aflatoxins are secondary metabolites produced by the species of Aspergillus, specifically Aspergillus flavus and Aspergillus parasiticus. The aflatoxins are highly toxic, mutagenic, teratogenic and carcinogenic compounds implicating as causative agents in human hepatic and extra hepatic carcinogenesis. The present project was divided into three parts. In the first part (Study I), the chemical changes in spices and groundnuts were studied under different packaging materials and storage conditions. There was no aflatoxin was detected in all groundnut varieties and spices. Cumin, red chillies and black pepper samples stored in jute bags showed maximum moisture contents as compared to high density polyethylene (HDPE) bags. Moisture content in cumin samples also increased significantly at 85% RH. Moisture content in all the samples increased as a result of storage and humidity. The storage, humidity and packaging materials showed non-significant effect on ash, protein, fat, fiber, nitrogen free extract (NFE) and total phenolics in groundnut varieties. The total fungal count, Aspergillus count and total aflatoxin in all spices was significantly (p< 0.01) affected due to packaging material, relative humidity, storage intervals and interactions of these variables. However, low level of total aflatoxin was detected in spices as compared to groundnuts. The chemical constituents like crude protein, crude protein, crude fiber, ash and NFE differed significantly among different groundnut varieties. However, storage intervals, packaging materials and interactions between these variables non-significantly affected the proximate composition of groundnuts varieties except moisture content which was increased during storage. In study II, after 120 days of storage the contaminated samples were packed in HDPE and irradiated by gamma radiation @ 2, 4 and 6 kGy and stored at room temperature and relative humidity in paper carton box along with control (0 kGy) for 90 days. The gamma radiation showed significant effect on total fungal count and aspergillus count as compared to control. Irradiation and storage showed non-significant effect on proximate composition and total phenolics of spices. The third (Study III) comprised the use of groundnut oil in cookies as to replace normal shortening and its effect on quality attributes of cookies during two month of storage period. The physico-chemical analyses and fatty acid profile of groundnut oil was performed. The results regarding fatty acids profile of groundnut oil indicated that GNO contain low level of saturated fatty acids; myristic acid (0.04%), palmitic acid (9.85), stearic acid (2.53), arachidic acid (1.21), behenic acid (2.52) and lignoceric acid (2.42%) while higher level of un-saturated fatty acids oleic acid (55.36%), linoleic acid (26.96%) and Eicosenoic acid (1.36%.). The groundnut oil was used in cookies preparation @ 25, 50, 75 and 100 % along with control (0% groundnut oil) and packed in HDPE bags for 2 months of storage at room temperature. The cookies were evaluated for physical, chemical, sensory and storage stability analyses. The moisture content, crude protein and Thiobarbituric acid (TBA) no. of cookies significantly varied as a function of storage, where as crude fiber, ash and NFE content of cookies varied non-significantly. The width, thickness and spread factor of cookies varied significantly due to variation of groundnut oil in cookies. The results of the present investigations indicated that spices and groundnuts can be safely stored in polyethylene bags for their better quality retention. The use of radiation can be helpful for the preservation of spices and groundnuts with respect to the production of aflatoxin during storage.